Church of Gold. ⛪
It doesn't look like a European church; it looks like a mosque from Constantinople. The interior is covered in 8,000 square meters of gold mosaics.
The Uneven Floor
Look down. The floor rolls like the sea. Centuries of subsidence have warped the marble mosaics into waves. It is dizzying and beautiful.
The Stolen Horses
The four bronze horses on the balcony were looted from Constantinople in 1204. Napoleon later stole them from Venice. Now, they are back (copies outside, originals inside).
The Pink Palace. 📜
A masterpiece of Venetian Gothic architecture. It looks light and airy, but it was the seat of a terrifying surveillance state.
Secret Itinerary
Book the "Itinerari Segreti" tour. It takes you into the attic prisons (Piombi) where Casanova was held, the torture chambers, and the secret archives.
Paradise
The Great Council Chamber features "Il Paradiso" by Tintoretto. It is one of the largest oil paintings in the world. It covers an entire wall.
Lion's Mouth
Look for the "Bocca di Leone" letterboxes carved into the walls. Citizens used them to slip anonymous denunciations of their neighbors to the secret police.
High Water
Pack Boots
Acqua Alta. 🌧️
It happens mostly in autumn and winter. The sirens wail, the tide rises, and St. Mark's Square turns into a lake.
The Passerelle:
The city sets up raised wooden walkways ("passerelle"). If you don't have rubber boots, buy the disposable plastic neon covers from street vendors. They look silly, but dry feet are priceless.
The Best View. 🔭
Next to the Rialto Bridge is a luxury department store in a historic palace. The shopping is expensive, but the roof is free.
Booking Required
You must book a 15-minute slot online in advance. It is strictly enforced. It is the only place to get a 360-degree view of the Grand Canal without a drone.
The Building
Even if you don't go to the roof, walk into the central courtyard. It was once the headquarters of German merchants. Now it is a stunning example of adaptive reuse by OMA (Rem Koolhaas).