Vaporetto No. 1. 🚤
The French ambassador once called the Grand Canal "the finest street in the world." The best way to see it is on the public water bus, Line 1.
The Best Seat
Rush to the very front or the very back. There is a small outdoor seating area. At sunset, watching the palaces glide by from here is worth the price of a flight to Italy alone.
The Route
It zig-zags from Piazzale Roma to San Marco. It is slow. That is the point. You see the Ca' d'Oro, the Rialto Bridge, and the Salute church.
The Gondola Math. 💶
It is the symbol of Venice. It is also incredibly expensive. Is it a tourist trap? Yes. Is it beautiful? Also yes.
The Fixed Rate
Do not haggle. The rates are official. Currently ~€90 for 30 minutes (day) and ~€110 (night). If a gondolier asks for more, find another one.
Route Matters
Avoid the gondolas near San Marco or the Rialto. You will be stuck in a "traffic jam" of boats. Go to a quiet station in San Polo or Dorsoduro for silence.
No Singing
Contrary to movies, gondoliers do not sing "O Sole Mio" (which is a Neapolitan song anyway) unless you pay extra for a singer/musician.
Stand Up
Balance is Key
The Traghetto. 🛶
There are only four bridges across the Grand Canal. How do locals cross elsewhere? They use a *traghetto*—a stripped-down gondola ferry.
How to do it:
Find a "Traghetto" sign (e.g., at Santa Sofia near the fish market). Pay €2 cash to the oarsman. Step in. The locals stand up while crossing. If you want to feel Venetian, stand. If you value your dry clothes, sit.
The Gondola Yard. 🔨
Gondolas are asymmetrical (to counter the weight of the rower). They are made of 8 different types of wood. You can watch them being built here.
The View
The boatyard looks like a mountain chalet (the craftsmen originally came from the Dolomites). You cannot go inside, but the view from the opposite bank (Fondamenta Nani) is perfect.
Osteria Al Squero
Grab a glass of prosecco and a cicchetto (snack) at the tiny *Osteria Al Squero* right across the canal. Watch the masters work on the black hulls while you sip.